Vitamin E Introduction
Vitamin E is a fat-soluble antioxidant that is essential for the maintenance of healthy skin and is an important ingredient in skincare products. Vitamin E is delivered to the skin by sebum, the fatty substance which is the main constituent of the body’s natural oils. In the stratum corneum (outermost layer of the epidermis), a concentration gradient of the vitamin exists whereby the levels decrease from the lower to upper layers. Since the stratum corneum is the skin’s first line of defense against external oxidative stressors such as sunlight and pollution, topical application with vitamin E can be particularly advantageous. In addition, vitamin E offers potential photo protective benefits against UV-induced free radical damage to skin. It also can provide anti-inflammatory benefits.
Forms and Sources of Vitamin E
There are eight naturally occurring substances within vitamin E family. They consist of four forms of tocopherol molecules (i.e., α-, β-, γ-, and δ-) and four forms of tocotrienol molecules (also α-, β-, γ-, and δ-). α-tocopherol is the predominant form of vitamin E used by the human body as it is the form preferentially processed by the liver for delivery to cells outside of the organ. Since the human body does not synthesize vitamin E, it must be obtained from dietary sources and rich natural sources of vitamin E include nuts, spinach, whole grains, olive oil, and sunflower oil.
Benefits of Vitamin E on Skin
Photo protection
Numerous animal studies have shown that topical application of vitamin E increases photo protection of the skin. Most of the studies involved α-tocopherol but photo protective skin effects have also been indicated to some extent with the acetate ester derivative. Reported benefits include reductions in skin redness, swelling and sunburn cell formation with pre-exposure application.
Limited evidence of the photo protective activity of vitamin E esters is likely attributable to the fact that the esters have to be metabolized in the skin to the biologically active “free” form of vitamin E in order to be effective. Thus, topical use of vitamin E esters may provide only limited benefit or may require a delay after administration to demonstrate any significant photo protective effect.
The photo protective benefits of vitamin E are derived from its ability to reduce radiation-induced per oxidation of skin surface lipids, limit DNA damage, and reduce various chemical and structural changes caused by UV skin exposure. Topical application of vitamin E has also been shown to reduce the effects of UV radiation when applied immediately after the exposure occurs. Decreased skin redness, swelling and skin thickening with post-exposure use of vitamin E have been reported.
Studies have also shown that the photo protective effects of topical vitamin E can be boosted by combining it with l-ascorbic acid, the biologically active form of vitamin C. The two vitamins work synergistically to reduce photo aging damage and provide greater overall protection against oxidative stress.
Anti-inflammatory effects
Vitamin E has been considered an anti-inflammatory agent in the skin based on studies that report a reduction in inflammatory skin damage after UV exposure. As mentioned above, topical vitamin E can reduce UV-induced skin swelling, redness, and thickening which are all signs of skin inflammation.
Studies on the anti-inflammatory effects of vitamin E supplementation are typically reported in combination with the vitamin’s photo protective effects. It is therefore difficult to distinguish any anti-inflammatory action from antioxidant activity that, in itself, would reduce the amount of inflammation that could occur. Despite these limitations, vitamin E has been reported to successfully treat chronic inflammatory skin conditions, either alone or in combination with vitamin C or vitamin D thus suggesting a true anti-inflammatory action.
Wound healing
There are many anecdotal reports that topical vitamin E speeds wound healing but scientific studies to support the claims are lacking.
Using Vitamin E – Who, When and Where
All skin types – dry, oily or combination skin can benefit from vitamin E. The doctors we spoke to all agreed that vitamin E on its own is not for everyone. In some cases, vitamin E can cause breakouts in acne-prone skin. Some individuals may also be hypersensitive to one or more forms of the vitamin.
Combining vitamin E with other antioxidants such as vitamin C and ferulic acid is recommended to reap the skin repair and protective benefits not achievable from vitamin E alone.
As with any new product, always conduct a patch test to determine if you could be allergic to it. Place a small amount of the product on a “test area” of your skin (usually the inside of arm where it won’t be inadvertently washed off) and leave on for 24 hours. If you develop any redness, rash, swelling, irritation or burning, do not use the product.
Introduce vitamin E into your morning and evening routine to maximize protection against daily environmental stressors such as pollution and sunlight and to allow recovery at night. Wash your face before applying your vitamin E product. Absorption times will vary depending on the specific vitamin E product used. If you will be out in the sun, don’t forget to apply sunscreen with a minimum SPF of 30 to all exposed surfaces of your skin.
Stability and Efficacy Considerations of Vitamin E
The majority of ‘vitamin E’ skincare products available in the marketplace are formulated with the acetate derivative of α-tocopherol rather than the biologically active α-tocopherol. From a stability perspective, this approach would appear to be advantageous since α-tocopherol is much more sensitive to oxidative degradation upon exposure to air. As noted previously, however, α-tocopherol acetate can only be effective if it is converted in the skin to α-tocopherol. The extent to which this conversion can occur, particularly in the stratum corneum, unfortunately, remains problematic. Selecting a product that uses α-tocopherol as the vitamin E ingredient in a manner that addresses its stability is therefore preferred to maximize the potential antioxidant benefits.
A number of products incorporate l-ascorbic acid with vitamin E but efficacy remains a challenge as the degradation of both vitamins is accelerated when the container is opened and exposed to air and light during use. Incorporation of ferulic acid, a ubiquitous plant antioxidant into a topical solution of 15% l-ascorbic acid and 1% α-tocopherol has been found to provide a vitamin C and E combination with improved stability. This combination also results in a doubling of the photo protection to solar-stimulated irradiation of skin (i.e., from fourfold to eight fold increase).
In summary, vitamin E is a neutral oil-based ingredient with a versatility that allows it to be used in lotions, moisturizers, and hair care products alone or in combination with other beneficial ingredients including hyaluronic acid, peptides, ceramides, vitamin C and even retinol.
What to look for in a Vitamin E skin care product?
Look for a product that contains natural α-tocopherol at a concentration of 0.5% to 1%. Products containing synthetic tocopherols are not recommended as they contain stereoisomers which dilute the vitamin E activity. Adverse reactions have also been reported with the synthetic tocopherols.
Find products that combine α-tocopherol with l-ascorbic acid, the biologically active form of vitamin C and other stabilizing antioxidants such as ferulic acid. Collectively they act as a strong force against wrinkles and photo aging.
Vitamin E is oxidized with air and light, so seek a product that is packaged in an opaque airless container as it will minimize degradation of vitamin E from light and air over time providing you effective serum.
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