This article focuses on the L-ascorbic acid form of vitamin C. Products containing derivatives of L-ascorbic acid (Ascorbyl Palmitate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate) are not discussed as the derivative ingredients must be first converted into ascorbic acid in order to have beneficial effects on the skin.
What is Vitamin C
Vitamin C, also known as L-ascorbic acid, is a water-soluble vitamin. Since the human body is not able to make its own vitamin C, we rely on foods such as oranges, broccoli and other vitamin C-containing fruits and vegetables to keep us healthy. Dermatologists, estheticians and consumers keen to incorporate the best ingredients into their skincare regimen also love vitamin C for its topical application benefits. It is known to be a potent skin brightener, an effective antioxidant for neutralizing skin-damaging free radicals and a key stimulant for the biosynthesis of collagen. The result is plumper-looking skin with less fine lines/wrinkles and a more even skin tone.
What does vitamin C do?
Vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps in collagen synthesis and skin brightening.
Vitamin C act as a Skin Brightener
As you age, you may develop dark spots or hyper pigmentation on your face, neck and chest from accumulated sun exposure and other environmental factors. Most forms of hyper pigmentation are caused by excess melanin production. Melanin is the pigment which imparts color to the skin, hair and eyes. As exposure to the sun increases, the production of melanin in the skin also increases. In order for the body to produce melanin it needs an enzyme called Tyrosinase.
Vitamin C works as a skin brightener by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, thereby decreasing the formation of melanin. By maintaining optimal levels of vitamin C in the skin, gradual fading of dark spots are possible resulting in a more even skin tone and a more luminous and youthful appearance.
Vitamin C acts as a stimulant in Collagen Synthesis
Collagen is a structural protein that occurs abundantly in the body. Its primary role in skin is to keep the skin layer firm and supple. In the body, collagen makes up about 25% to 35% of the protein content and can be found in tendons, ligaments, muscles and, of course, skin.
Vitamin C stimulates the synthesis of collagen. It is also involved in the hydroxylation of collagen molecules which is key in the stabilization of the collagen structure supporting the epidermis - outermost layer of skin.
Unfortunately, the production of collagen gradually degrades after the age of 30 and lower collagen levels in skin results in fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging skin. Vitamin C levels in skin also naturally decrease with age, so topical application and absorption of ascorbic acid is very beneficial to help boost collagen production for firmer and elastic skin.
Vitamin C is a potent Antioxidant
Free radicals are unstable entities that can cause oxidative damage to proteins throughout the body. This damage can lead to changes in the structure of skin which can accelerate the aging process. Antioxidants can reduce oxidative damage by interacting with free radicals to form more stable compounds. Antioxidants in the skin slow down the degradation of collagen and help to keep the skin healthy, supple and firm. Vitamin C is one of the most potent antioxidants in the skin. It works by transferring/donating electrons to free radicals to effectively neutralize them. A diet rich in antioxidants coupled with the direct administration of vitamin C to the skin by topical application provides a well-rounded approach to minimize skin damage caused by oxidative stress.
Effect of pH on Vitamin C Absorption
In order to be effective when topically applied, vitamin C must be absorbed into the skin. For water-based serums, skin absorption of the vitamin is greatly impacted by pH. pH is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution. Water, which is neutral, has a pH of 7.0 while acidic solutions have a pH less than 7.0 and alkaline or basic solutions have a pH greater than 7.0.
Studies on pig skin, which has been determined to be anatomically, physiologically, and biochemically similar to human skin show that the absorption of L-ascorbic acid starts to increase as the pH is reduced below 4.0. Maximum absorption occurs at a pH value of 2.0.
As a result of these studies, water-based vitamin C serums are formulated to have a pH between 2.5 and 3.5. This pH range allows for good absorption of the vitamin into the skin while addressing the negative effects of irritation.
Using Vitamin C - How much is too much Vitamin C is a potent ingredient, so if you’re someone with sensitive skin and/or just starting to incorporate it into your skincare routine, we recommend that you start with low potency serums (e.g., 10% ascorbic acid)*. We also recommend that you limit the frequency of application to one to two times a week until your skin adjusts to the ingredient. You can gradually work your way up to daily use.
As with any new product, always conduct a patch test to determine if you could be allergic to it. Place a small amount of the product on a “test area” of your skin (usually the inside of arm where it won’t be inadvertently washed off) and leave on for 14 hours. If you develop any redness, rash, swelling, irritation or burning, do not used the product.
Studies have shown that topical application of 15-20% Vitamin C at 2.0 to 3.5 pH results in maximum absorption in the skin. As you increase the Vitamin C concentration more than 20% the absorption degrades and irritation increases. So look for serums with Vitamin C concentration in rage of 15% to 20% and pH 3.0 to 3.5. If the pH is too low absorption does increase but so does the irritation. At 2.0 pH the solution becomes too acidic that gradually destroys skin's top layer and causes skin irritation.
When and Where should you use Vitamin C
Introduce vitamin C into your morning routine for maximize protection against daily environmental stressors such as pollution and the sun. Wash your face before applying the vitamin C serum. The serum will typically be absorbed within 30 seconds. Finish your routine with a moisturizer and if you will be out in the sun, don’t forget to apply sunscreen with a minimum SPF of 30. As the neck is often exposed to harmful UV rays(from the sun), pollution and other environmental factors which damage the skin, remember to also include the neck area when applying vitamin C to your face as part of your daily skincare routine.
Do not use retinol (another powerful anti-aging ingredient) with vitamin C. The two ingredients can interact and cause skin inflammation. Leave retinol for night time use for overnight repair of the skin and keep vitamin C for your morning routine. Check out our article on “Which ingredients can be mixed and why?” to find out more about combining skin care ingredients.
We Recommend
Our Vitamin C , NiCEP serum with 18% pure L ascorbic acid, 3.5% niacinamide, 1% panthenol and 1% Vitamin E formulated at 3.2 pH targets the look of fine lines while shielding skin from environmental stressors. If your skin is on the sensitive side, we suggest our 10% NICEPs Vitamin C Serum packed with anti-inflammatory ingredients like niacinamide, licroce root and is formulated at 3.5 pH, closer to skin’s natural pH of 4.5 to not disturb skin’s pH balance... Coming soon.
Thoughts - leave a comment!
Comments